I am not a vain person, but there's one
picture of myself that I look at again and again. I'm smiling
broadly and one arm is wrapped easily under the irresistible chin
of King, the charmingly neurotic, Chivas-colored gelding I'd
spent the morning riding up and down the silent, sloping hills of
the Montana Rockies. To me, this picture is far more than a
lovely vacation memory. It's an image of how I'd like to look and
feel every single day. And it all happened at Triple Creek
Ranch.
My first hint that this
all-inclusive luxury ranch in Darby, Montana was going to
re-define the concepts of “all-inclusive” and ”luxury
ranch” was the herd of elk I was greeted by as I drove up the
winding driveway toward the main lodge. Shiny and fat, the wild
animals were so at home that they were actually grazing while
lying down in the rolling, lush, grassy lawn that flanks the
ranch's driveway.
After a casual but comprehensive
check in process””which felt more like the welcome you get when
you arrive at a friend's house for the weekend than the standard
five star hello””I was taken to the Bitterroot, my own private
luxury log cabin. And, no, that's not an oxymoron.
Of course the
Bitteroot was fully loaded with all the extras we've come to
expect in rustic luxury: a fireplace, leather furniture, huge
windows, a porch. But all accommodations at Triple Creek Ranch
also feature above-and-beyond touches like a two head shower that
converts into a steam room at the flip of a switch, a wealth of
eclectic paintings and sculptures by some of the best Western
artists in the world, an un-mini bar with full-size
bottles of vodka, gin and whiskey (in addition to chilled mixers)
and freshly roasted coffee beans with a grinder (but, oddly, no
fresh milk) in the kitchen.
Cabins also have DVD and CD
players (a few selections are placed in your room pre-check in
and there's a full DVD and CD library in the main lodge to raid
at will) and the hot tub on my porch that was so private that
clothes really were optional. This was just one of many ways
Triple Creek Ranch surprised me with it's romantic side. The
ranch's no-kids-under-age-16 policy, in-room massage and a
maximum capacity of 48 guests at a time adds to what manager
Wayne Kilpatrick calls “camping for adults.” Very, very lucky
adults.
Just when I'd decided to never
leave my stunning cabin I remembered that a whole host of outdoor
activities were included in the all-inclusive rate at Triple
Creek Ranch, including horseback riding, skiing, fly casting,
putting, tennis and more. So I hopped into the electric cart that
guests are issued at check-in (no noisy private cars are allowed
on the narrow paved paths connecting the secluded cabins to the
lodge, pool and other activity areas), and headed for the stable
to explore some of the ranch's 600 acres from the saddle.
With so much to
do, it's not hard to get your favorite jeans or best fly-fishing
vest dirty while enjoying the ranch's trails, rivers or poolside
lounge chairs. But Triple Creek Ranch has thought of that too and
includes laundry in your rate. Within 24 hours of pickup, clean
clothes are delivered back to your cabin wrapped in tissue paper
packages which look so elegant that, for a moment, I thought
there were presents in my room. And there were: free bundles of
clean laundry!
After a blissful day of horseback
riding, I drove my cart up to the lodge for dinner where the food
and service demonstrated yet more reasons why Triple Creek Ranch
gained Relais & Chateaux status in 1996.
In addition to all snacks and
meals (served anywhere, anytime), there are a number of wonderful
house wines included in your rate (try the Zenaida
Chardonnay from Paso Robles, California in particular) and the
impressive full wine list has both ends of the price tag spectrum
well covered. Sure, you can splurge on a bottle of 1982 Chateau
Mouton Rothschild for $1,650, but when I was there the list also
featured almost 50 wonderful options for under $40 including an
addictive Austrian sparkler called Domaine Schlumberger Cuvee
Klimt Brut for just $34.
No wonder Triple Creek Ranch
received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in both
2005 and 2006. And it's sure to win more
culinary accolades with Food and Wine Director Maximilian Kast at
the helm. His enthusiasm and knowledge about food, wine and
Triple Creek Ranch itself would be impressive in somebody twice
his age and (bonus!) he brings zero snob-factor to his work””or to
your table.
Though every meal is expertly
prepared and impeccably served (there's one waiter for every two
guests at the table so everyone gets their food at the same
moment), do not leave Triple Creek Ranch without enjoying a
dinner at the Chef's Table.
For an additional charge of $85
per person, guests are treated to a three hour dining experience
that includes expert wine pairings. Chef's Table guests are
seated in a private glass-enclosed room directly off the kitchen
where you can watch chef Jacob Leatherman and his staff prepare
your meal. It's impossible to say whether the experience or the
food and wine was more memorable.
Oh, and that picture of myself
that I love so much? It was a gift. All guests
at Triple Creek Ranch receive a complimentary photo of themselves
enjoying their first ranch activity. After all, it's their job to
think of (and handle) all the details. It's your job to have the
kind of good time you will never forget””whatever that means to
you.
Rates: $650 to $2,495 per
night double occupancy (rates are all-inclusive)
Triple Creek Ranch
5551 West Fork Road
Darby, Montana 59829
Phone: (406) 821-4600 or (800)654-2943
www.triplecreekranch.com
n April, 2006 peripatetic journalist Karen Catchpole left her
job as deputy editor of SHOP Etc. magazine in New York
City, jumped into a Chevy Silverado and embarked on the Trans-Americas
Journey, a three year, 70,000+ mile road trip through North,
Central and South America. When she's not reviewing luxury
hotels, resorts, ranches and B&Bs, she can be found enjoying
the nearest camp ground.
