I’ve always found the Catskills to be one of the most relaxing places to visit.­ Growing up, I spent long summer holidays at my grandparents’s home near the region, located nearly two­ hours from New York. And once I moved to the Big Apple, the slower pace, antiquing, and delicious local cuisine drew me to towns like New Paltz and Woodstock­. Now I have another reason to keep returning: The Emerson Resort & Spa.

My friend Stephanie and I arrived late on a snowy Friday night, so we couldn’t quite appreciate the surroundings of the two-story inn until morning. Twenty-seven rooms and suites in the adults-only inn have views of picturesque MountTremper and Esopus Creek. The atmosphere is the ideal mix of an Eastern elegance and the rustic vibe that makes the Catskills such a rejuvenating destination. Throughout the Inn, we saw intricately carved furniture and doorways and luxurious textiles. But the warm staff, coupled with the surroundings, was right in line with what I already know and love about the area.

We settled into a suite that was about so much more than the working fireplace and the not-so-mini bar featuring a collection of 18 wines. Canopy-draped beds with hand-carved teak headboards, along with silk linens in jewel-toned reds, golds, and, violets, were the focal points—and perfect for lounging on while watching Miss Congeniality on the plasma screen television. The spacious bathroom featured a Swiss shower and a large air-jetted soaking tub. The suite opened onto a private deck overlooking the creek.

On Saturday morning, I headed down the hall and through the 17th century Rajasthani palace doors to the spa. As with the Emerson overall, the spa is a perfect balance of East and West. A menu of over 40 treatments includes Ayurvedic-inspired rituals like Shirodhara (an ancient type of massage focusing on the scalp, neck, and shoulders) and better-known options like the deep tissue/sports massage. I indulged in one of the Emerson’s signature treatments: the Hot Oil & Herb Poultice Massage. My therapist used herb packs warmed in oil as tools to knead away muscles all over my body. I floated out of the spa and over to the Café, where I met Stephanie for fresh pressed vegetable juice and chicken lettuce wraps.

By dinnertime—with a Tai Chi class and a drive in the countryside behind us—we were ready for a hearty dinner. The Emerson’s Phoenix restaurant serves up gourmet Asian and New American cuisine by chef Ross Fraser. Stephanie started with a smooth curried parsnip soup; I went for the open lasagna—a sheet of pasta topped with a mixture of wild mushrooms, parmigiano, and truffle oil. We followed up with steaks and sides of goat cheese mashed potatoes. Had we been purists, we could have ordered from the spa menu, which includes poached and baked local trout stuffed with crab and shrimp, as well as misoyaki glazed salmon filet with a sake cilantro broth.

We didn’t have to go far to get our shopping fix. Located at the far end of the inn is the Country Store. Housed in a restored 19th-century dairy barn, the store features room after room of eclectic merchandise. Simon Pearce glassware and unusual pearl necklaces by Jawi L’soncaught my eye. Don’t leave without picking up a tin of Tay Tea. The loose tea—which is used for the Emerson’s Afternoon Tea service—comes in flavours like Better Than Sex and A Day in Provence. Ten minutes away—and past several quirky antiques shops—is a must-stop called Serv ce  Station. The 1950s-era garage is filled with sleek furniture designed by local Jonah Meyer and crafted with local woods.If you’re heading back to New York City, Woodbury Commons—an upscale outlet shopping mall just off the New York State Thruway—is tempting. But be warned. It’s a madhouse on the weekends. Stop on your way to Emerson or during the week. Otherwise, you risk undoing all the good from your stress-free mini-break!

The Emerson’s website shows the range of special packages that go with the seasons. Next up: the Ski & Spa package. It includes access to the nearby BelleayreSkiCenter, a spa treatment, and luxe après ski at the Phoenix. The Ladies of Luxury package is offered year-round. The two-night package includes several spa treatments, dinner and breakfast each day, and a discount at the Country Store.

Rates start at $425.

Emerson Resort & Spa
5340 Route 28
Mount Tremper, New York12457
Phone: (877)688-2828

www.emersonresort.com

New York-basedSofia Galadzahas written for Conde Nast Traveler, Time OutNew York, 360 and Four Seasons Magazine.