It's hard to find anyone that doesn't love Dublin. The city that gave us literary giants such as James Joyce and W.B Yeats, as well as sensory pleasures like Guinness and U2, is as buzzy and vibrant as it ever was. Although the Celtic tiger may be slowing its pace, the city is constantly changing with new restaurants, shops and bars opening seemingly ever week. Dublin is an eminently friendly city, and the cool weather will encourage even the most diehard teetotaller to head to the nearest pub to sample the Irish craic.

That said, there's still plenty of kitsch, or what the Irish would call "twee" things. For every store selling Orla Kiely bags, Avoca knitwear and John Rocha crystal, there are five more selling shamrocks, Aran sweaters and cheesy "Kiss Me I'm Irish" t-shirts. Once you get past that, Dublin is bursting with great design, from up and coming  fashion designers to the sleek look of new restaurants, such as BrasserieSixty6. Although there are plenty of high street stores in Dublin, it is also a fantastic destination for boutique shopping. If your tastes run more towards the traditional, you'll love the graceful Georgian architecture of the city, especially around Merrion Square.

GET ORIENTED

Dublin is divided by the River Liffey, and the main shopping areas are clustered around Grafton Street as well as Temple Bar. Temple Bar is often described as the "Soho of Dublin" as it's chock-a-block with bars and cafes, but most residents steer clear of it and prefer to hang out off Grafton Street. The heart of Dublin is located in Dublin 1 and 2.

 

 

 

 

SURVIVAL TIPS

Dublin is small and compact enough that you can walk everywhere you need to go. Transportation issues are not a problem if you plan on staying in central Dublin, which is Dublin 1 and 2. The city is awash with coffee shops as well as Internet cafes, so you'll never be stuck without a skinny soy latte or a speedy connection. Keep in mind that Ireland recently banned smoking in pubs and restaurants but to get around it, most pubs have created outdoor "beer gardens"  where the emphasis is certainly on the beer rather than garden ””but they let you smoke outdoors. Like London, Dublin is a city which closes early so if you want a late night on the town, make sure you find a club that stays open later, such as Café en Seine.  

CULTURE BREAK

If you only have time to see one thing in Dublin, see The Book of Kells, housed in Trinity College. The book is an extraordinary illuminated manuscript from 800 AD produced by monks. Be forewarned that you only get to see a few pages of the book after winding your way through an illogically laid out exhibition. One of the best parts of the admission is the upstairs library, called the Long Room, which houses 200,000 books. The long narrow room is lined with marble busts of philosophers. The library has a great gift shop too. www.tcd.ie/Library

The Guinness Storehouse is one of the most popular places to visit in Dublin and yes, the price of admission does include a free pint of the black stuff. The visitor's centre is well laid out with interesting exhibits that tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the Guinness family as well as how they make their beer. www.guinness-storehouse.com

Book ahead and see a performance at The Abbey Theatre, also known as The Irish National Theatre, which was founded in 1903 by W. B. Yeats and Lady Augusta Gregor. The theatre supports Irish playwrights and actors, and the building is wonderfully creaky and atmospheric. www.abbeytheatre.ie  

James Joyce fans should head out to his house in 15 Usher's Island in Dublin 8, where he set the short story The Dead, the last in Dubliners. The James Joyce House has recently been restored and is also available for rent, in case you want to have your own Dead Dinner there. www.jamesjoycehouse.com

HOTELS

Dublin has a couple of grand hotels, including The Merrion and The Shelbourne (which at press time is closed for renovation until September 2006), and the top boutique hotels in the city are The Clarence and The Morrison. The Four Seasons is located out of the centre of town and is more suitable to business travellers rather than those just wanting to shop and have fun.

The Merrion

This gorgeous hotel is made up from four connecting Georgian townhouses, and only a small brass sign marks the hotel's exterior. The ground floor drawing rooms are cosy with overstuffed furniture, oil paintings and roaring fires. The rooms have retained their Georgian features, with high windows and ceilings and intricate plasterwork. Rates start at €370.
Click here for our review or visit the hotel's website at  www.merrionhotel.com

The Westbury

For serious shoppers who want to be in the middle of it all, The Westbury has one of the best locations in the city. Just off Grafton Street, the hotel is located within Westbury Mall which houses celebrity favourite boutique Rococo. Although the public spaces are very grand, some of the 215 guestrooms can look a little plain so try to book a suite or an executive room if you can. Rates start at €370.

www.jurysdoyle.com or www.lhw.com

The Clarence

Partly owned by U2 front-man Bono and band mate The Edge, The Clarence is Dublin's original boutique hotel. Its located in the heart of Temple Bar, which is ideal for shopping and nightlife, but the overall look is more demure than rock and roll. Rooms have an Arts and Crafts motif, and as expected, the sound systems are superb.

Rates start at €330.

www.theclarence.ie

The Morrison

The chic Morrison is located just across the River Liffey from The Clarence, and is a study of understated chic. The rooms have been designed by John Rocha according to feng shui principals, so in lieu of flat walls everything has curves. Although the look is minimalist its also very warm, thanks to his use of warm colours and textures. The ground floor lobby is a great place for drinks and snacks. Rates start at €285.

www.morrisonhotel.ie  

If you'd rather save your money for shopping: The Jurys Hotel chain usually has good deals, and Bewley's Hotel Ballsbridge is a good option for those who don't mind being out in Dublin 4. The Morgan Hotel , in the heart of Temple Bar, is a budget hotel with an Ian Schrager look. Although the rooms are definitely starting to show their age, with plenty of wear and tear, the hotel is currently undergoing a renovation so its worth a second look. The Temple Bar location is also a plus, although request a quiet room if you'd rather catch some zzz's. Rates start at €130. 

SHOPPING

Shopping in Dublin is a wonderful experience for so many reasons. It's easy to hit most of the major stores in a day or two since the city is so compact without having to jump into a taxi or take a subway. More than convenience is the atmosphere. Where else is the local mall a converted 18^th century Georgian townhouse? The city is crammed with tiny, jewel box boutiques selling everything from lingerie and woollens to chic women's clothes and crystal chandeliers. The designs are anything but stodgy. Some of the best buys to snap up are interesting woollens, from mohair throws to pashminas and funky tweed skirts. 

Key shopping areas

Grafton Street is the main shopping street and it is pedestrianised for easy shopping. It is mostly high street chain stores, like Principles, Oasis, Laura Ashley, Monsoon, Miss Selfridge and lingerie store La Senza. Grafton Street is also home to a few one of a kind places including Brown Thomas, the most luxurious department store in Dublin; Pia Bang for clothes and interiors; and The Decent Cigar Emporium, a shop which feels like a men's club. Other key streets include Suffolk Street, Nassau Street, and Wicklow Street.

Malls overview

Why can't more malls be like the Powerscourt Centre ? The mall is located in a listed Georgian building, with an atrium built over the courtyard. The ground floor houses a row of antique shops, selling everything from diamond jewellery to silver and porcelain. Powerscourt is home to the Dublin Design Centre, which showcases the best of Irish design and international designers, from Louise Kennedy to Matthew Williamson. There are a few chain stores here, including FCUK but the vast majority of the stores are independent. Check out the black and white prints by Giles Norman, and make time to have a coffee or lunch in one of the six in-house restaurants. If you have time, visit the Powerscourt Estate in County Wicklow, which features a gorgeous Palladian House as well as a shopping complex. A new Ritz-Carlton hotel will be opening up on the grounds in 2006.

South William St.,
Dublin 2.

www.powerscourtcentre.com  

The Westbury Mall, which houses the Westbury Hotel, has two standout boutiques- Chica and Rococo. Chica is very girlie and feminine, with pink walls and gilt furniture. Helen Mirren, Sharon Corr of The Corrs, and Keira Knightley have all browsed through the racks. Designers carried include La Bella Lola, Lulu and Red, and Antik Batik. Britney Spears has popped into Rococo but the store can be a bit of a hit or miss. On one visit we wanted to buy everything in sight; another time, there was nothing we liked. Designers carried include Aftershock, Andy Warhol by Cultura, Courteza, Hoss Homeless and Nougat.

Off Grafton Street
Dublin 2

St. Stephen's Green is incredibly popular for locals but leans more toward chain stores than one-of-a-kind boutiques. There's a TK Maxx (or TJ Maxx in the US) as well as Benetton and Hughes & Hughes bookstores. There's also an outpost of the popular noodle bar Wagamama here. 

St Stephen's Green Centre,
Dublin 2 

George's Arcade

This little arcade is a cross between a mall and a market but visitors are sheltered from the rain under the lovely Victorian roof.  There are stalls selling everything from hot dogs to cheap silver jewellery. Most of the shops will appeal to students but one stand out is the boutique Tulle, which is tiny and very girlie with (you guessed it) tulle curtains in the dressing room. There is a small but well edited collection of clothes from Sass & Bide, Betsey Johnson, Erotokritos, and Joanna Hynes. Barry Doyle Jewellery is also worth a look there, as his shop doubles as his studio.

Georges Street Arcade,
Dublin 2

Markets overview

There are plenty of gourmet farmer's markets and flower stalls around the city but shoppers should make time to visit the Saturday Cow's Lane Market in Temple Bar, the only market devoted to designers. On sale is everything from clothing, to belts, bags, umbrellas, ceramics and jewellery. Open on Saturdays from 10am-5.30pm.

Temple Bar,
Dublin 2

Department Stores

Brown Thomas is the most fashionable department store in town. Think of it as the Harvey Nicks or Barneys of Dublin. All the big brands are here, from Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Chanel to Prada and Matthew Williamson. Extras include the new bespoke tailoring service, where customers can have suits whipped up from Brioni's and Hermes's tailors. There's also a Denim Bar and an in-house, old fashioned barber shop. If you want to save some euros, head to lower priced BT2 down Grafton Street. It sells younger, better priced lines including Ted Baker and Miss Sixty.

88-95 Grafton Street,
Dublin 2

www.brownthomas.ie

Arnotts

This big department store is Ireland's oldest department store and is housed in a wonderfully ornate Victorian building. The store has recently been refurnished and offers everything from River Island to Tommy Hilfiger and a selection of Burberry items. Its good, but very mass market. Think of it as the John Lewis or Macy's of Dublin.

12 Henry Street,
Dublin 1 

Roches

Roches is a good one-stop-shop if you are looking for major high street brands such as Zara, Warehouse, The Pier, and Sunglass Hut all under one roof.

54 Henry Street
Dublin 1

www.roches-stores.ie

Food and Cafes

There are no shortage of terrific places to eat and drink in Dublin, and first time visitors will be pleased by the cuisine which is seasonal, fresh and hearty. Some of our favourite places are listed below.

Gruel

Gruel is a good place to get lunch on the run. The motto is "We Gruel You Drool". This tiny café is always packed, with the line snaking around the block but don't let it deter you; it moves quickly. There's a wide selection of soups and salads but the best option is to choose from the carvery and have a sandwich on the homemade bread. There's also homemade pizza with chorizo and rocket (arugula).

67 Dame Street,
Dublin 2

Mermaid Café

The Mermaid Café, located on the corner of Dame Street and Temple Bar, is a small, stylish restaurant focusing on fresh seafood. The look is casual chic, with scrubbed pine floors and tables. The menu is described as "France meets East Coast America", and offers everything from cassoulet to salt cod croquettes with fried quail eggs and lemon mayo; and butternut squash ravioli with spinach, orange, capers, sage and almonds. Open for lunch and dinner.

69/70 Dame Street,
Dublin 2

www.mermaid.ie

Bang Café

Bang Café, located on Merrion Square near the Merrion Hotel, is one of the most stylish places to eat in town. The ground floor has a sleek, narrow bar and there is additional seating downstairs. The menu is contemporary and international serving everything from poached pear, walnut and crozier blue salad; to bangers and mash and Pan Fried Cod with crushed potato, baby squid, asparagus and cherry vine. Open for lunch and dinner.

11 Merrion Row,
Dublin 2

www.bangrestaurant.com  

Brasserie Sixty6

This stylish restaurant opened in autumn 2005 in central Dublin, and the menu emphasizes fresh, local Irish meat and produce. The dining room is long and narrow, with chocolate brown walls, oak floors and antique plates decorate the walls, see if you can spot two alike. There's a Rotisserie chicken du jour with avocado salsa, pancetta; Chargrilled lamb chunks with harissa crème fraiche; and chargrilled whole rainbow trout, sprout salad, herb potatoes. Just next door is Sixty6 the grocer, where visitors can buy gourmet olive oils, coffees and pastries. Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner.

66-67 South George Street,
Dublin 2

www.brasseriesixty6.com

Nightlife

Cafe en Seine is a café by day, and a bar/club by night. Located on Dawson Street just off Grafton Street, the three story building has an over-the-top, Art Nouveau themed. Best of all, the menus are surprisingly affordable.

Cafe en Seine,
40 Dawson St,
Dublin 2

The Bailey is a stylish bar and lounge just off Grafton Street. Once the home of a Victorian pub which attracted writer and politicians, The Bailey is now one of the trendiest places to have a pint in the city. It also attracts a lunch time crowd in search of a quick bite.

The Bailey,
2-3 Duke Street,
Dublin 2

The Octagon Bar inside The Clarence hotel serves up some of the best martinis in town, but plenty of people come by hoping to catch a glimpse of Bono (he is a part owner of the hotel).

6-8 Wellington Quay,
Dublin 2

Fans of Americana should head to Shanahan's on the Green, which is owned by an Irish-American. Head to the downstairs Oval Office Bar, which is packed with memorabilia from sixteen American Presidents with Irish connections. One of the bar's prized possessions is JFK's Rocking Chair from Air Force One.

119 St. Stephen's Green,
Dublin 2

www.shanahans.ie