The night I checked into the Inn of the Five Graces felt like it should have been dark and stormy: It was difficult to come to terms with desperately wanting to be in a nice, warm bed on a night that was, in fact, starry and cool. I'd been stuck driving for no less than 14 hours, straight across the West Texas plains and eastern New Mexico to Santa Fe, and by the time I parked my car, I was exhausted, irritable, and starving. At this point, almost midnight, I was so happy to be done with the driving that I would have happily accepted a futon mattress and an empty pillowcase, which I could stuff with my jacket. ­

Instead, I got a deliriously perfect room, with a plate of corn chips and salsa on a table in the entryway, cookies next to my bed, and an offer for a sandwich before bedtime from a friendly receptionist who successfully masked any aggravation he might have felt about opening up the kitchen at midnight.

The Inn of the Five Graces, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World,  is small, just 24 suites arranged around a series of adobe courtyards—the feeling is of a (tiny) town within a town, private and secluded but also wonderfully situated for exploring Santa Fe. The rooms are downright fantastic: On that very first glance, the deep red and browns suggest, correctly, that you're in the Southwest, but there's nary a dreamcatcher in sight: The decor cues are, instead, straight out of central Asia, with gorgeous textiles from all over the region, antique Indian screens in the bathroom and fabulous furniture everywhere. It sounds like hyperbole, but it's really that good: From the embroidered window coverings to the striking rugs, I found it nearly impossible to avoid constantly wondering how much, exactly, it would cost to take everything home.

Would-be shoppers, take note: The inn was founded by Ira Seret, who, with his wife Sylvia, provided the distinctly eastern design direction. The Serets opened the inn in 1996, after a 15-year stay in Afghanistan that ended only with the Russian invasion. Seret's treasures—accumulated from decades of travel to the Middle East and across Asia—give the inn its unique visual style. Even more luckily, the Serets now operate Seret & Sons, with a 50,000-foot showroom just blocks from the hotel. The goods aren't cheap, but it's hard to imagine a better-edited, yet still massive collection of textiles, furnishings, and architectural elements.

Despite the antique appointments, the suites offer all necessary mod cons—there's DirecTV in the bedroom and a microwave in the well-stocked kitchenette—even if the emphasis is on relaxation and pampering. There's a fireplace with plenty of (constantly replenished) cut wood and newsprint kindling, positioned within view of the overstuffed bed. The bathroom is a design wonder in its own right, with beautifully tiled walls courtesy of Sylvia Seret, natural light from above, and a full range of bath and beauty products (including, helpfully, sunscreen) from a local brand. Some bathrooms also have claw-foot tubs or Jacuzzis.

The inn is well positioned for exploring Santa Fe by foot. It's located just south of the Santa Fe River (which had dried to a trickle at the time of my visit) in the historic Barrio de Analco and across the street from the San Miguel Mission, reportedly the oldest church in the U.S. The inn's not much more than a five-minute walk to the central plaza and its attendant shopping, galleries and restaurants; the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum and the American Indian Arts Museum are particularly close by. Of course, I didn't see either of them, as I was too busy enjoying my gigantic, fluffy bed, emptying the small refrigerator of its candy bars and Diet Coke, and settling in for a few evenings of television in front of the fireplace. (It's just that comfortable.) If I'd ventured a few feet outside my door, I might have also discovered the Santa Fe Playhouse, just next door.

Besides the bedside snacks that greeted me on arrival, small kitchenettes, with microwaves and a full range of dishes and cutlery, provide independent in-room dining options. Breakfast is included in the room charge and is served in a cozy room connected to the reception area as well as in an outdoor courtyard. During the rest of the day, a light tapas menu is supplemented by a range of sandwiches and hot panini: the one that greeted me on the night of my arrival was the prosciutto, mozzarella, basil and tomato, and I would heartily recommend it.

Anyone looking for a more substantial meal can head next door to the Pink Adobe restaurant: Founded in 1944, its highlights include the red chile barbecue pork chop, the classic Pink Adobe lobster salad, and the French onion soup, which has remained on the menu since the restaurant opened its doors. The wine selection is carefully tended by a French sommelier, and the Five Graces regularly hosts wine-tastings in the Pink Adobe's cozy space.

Rates start at $385 per night.

Inn of the Five Graces
150 E. DeVargas Street
Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501
Phone: (505) 992-0957

www.fivegraces.com

www.slh.com

Diane Vadino writes for magazines including Nylon, Marie Claire, and ID from her base in Brooklyn. Her debut novel, Smart Girls Like Me, was published in autumn 2007.