When the first Aman resort in the US opened, I talked my way in to the hotel just to get a look around its rich stone and wood lobby, comfortable library and cozy restaurant. I even got a tantalizing peak inside one of its 40 rooms. But I didn't get the chance to stay there. Five years later, I'm standing in the soaring lobby of the Amangani once again, but this time I'm here as a guest.