Looking for some expert
advice on Tuscany? Then pick up a copy of Barbara Milo Ohrbach's latest
tome, “Dreaming of Tuscany” (Rizzoli). This intrepid traveller
has written over 20 best-selling lifestyle books, and has a
lifetime of travel and shopping experience. Ohrbach started her
career as a fashion industry executive, which kickstarted her
passion for art and antiques. She and her husband, Mel, later
opened a small Manhattan
shop to sell off years of accumulated
collections. The shop, Cherchez, was an immediate success and led
to the publication of Ohrbach's first book, the now classic
“The Scented Room” in
1986.
What is the last place you visited, and where is the
next place you're going?
When you need to
relax and get away from it all, where do you
go?
We've always been partial to
Venice. There, we avoid things too familiar
in New York--loud noise, car horns and exhaust and the hectic
pace of city life all while enjoying great museums, wonderful
Italian food, fabulous shopping, proximity to the treasures of
the Veneto and the captivating peace of the
sea.
Having just finished my new book, “Dreaming of
Tuscany”, I'd have to say my current favourite is
Florence. I started
out in the fashion industry as a sportswear buyer and then had my
own trend-setting shop, Cherchez, for almost 25 years, travelling
to Europe several times a year, so I usually find something
fabulous to buy everywhere I go. In addition to
Florence, I would
have to include London, Hong Kong, Paris, Helsinki and my home
town, New York City.
Both””how could one not be? I'm always looking
for that unexpected treasure which is there if you develop your
eye. All the better if it is affordable. I
love buying several of a really terrific find and surprising my
friends with an unexpected gift””especially if it is something
someone collects.
What is your favourite item that you have
purchased when travelling?
This is a hard question since my favourite
item is usually the last thing that I have bought! I just found
the most elegant hand woven linen herringbone patterned shawls
wrapped in Kraft paper and tied with string and a silver Tuscan
seal that I bought for Christmas gifts in southern
Tuscany. So chic and
so Italian. I discovered some beautiful Art Deco bracelets
recently at the antiques market in Arezzo. I love silk scarves and
have found some of the best ones, including vintage Hermes,
in Paris at
resale shops and the Marche
au Puce.
I have never regretted
buying anything and have enjoyed every purchase. I sometimes
regret spending so much money or being too
indulgent.
There are so many
hotels I love staying in that it is hard to pick just one. The
Beverly Hills Hotel and the Bel Air in Los Angeles, the Four
Seasons Hualalai on the island of Hawaii, the Merrion Hotel in
Dublin and Glin Castle in Limerick, Claridges and the Connaught
my old favourites in London, and two heavenly discoveries listed
in my book””Palazzo Niccolini in Florence and La Suvera, a
sumptuous haven south of Siena.
Tuscany which includes, of course, Florence has some of the best
shopping on the planet. It's because there are so many artisans
whose families for generations have been creating the most
beautiful things, from the obvious gorgeous leathers, such as
shoes, bags and gloves to metalwork, frames, mosaics, pottery and
textiles for the home. Some of my favorites are:
- Carlo
Fagiani, Panzano, who makes hand made shoes from the
most luscious soft colorful leather.
-Ceramiche Rampini, Radda in Chianti, not your everyday pottery. Beautiful shapes decorated with Tuscan flowers and animals--absolutely charming.
-Neltempo, Radda in Chianti, everything hand crafted for the home including fresco painting painting in the ancient technique of marmorino.
-Hortus Mirabilis, Bagno Vignoni, lovely herbal lotions and potions.
-Fidia Cappelli, Montechiello, beautiful hand woven bed and table linens.
-Le Sorelle, Lucca, beautiful tabletops.
The rest are in Florence, currently my favourite place to find
unique things:
-Antico Setificio Fiorentina, luxurious fabrics made from
centuries old designs.
-Lorenzo Villoresi, heavenly, custom made perfumes and oils.Tharros, costume copies of Renaissance jewels.
-Lungarno Details, Ferragamo home design store.
-Scuolo del Cuoio, the famous leather school still makes beautiful accessories and handbags.
-Paolo Pagliai and Pampaloni, two different silver stores where the Florentines go for impeccable craftsmanship and wedding gifts.
In Florence:
Baroni Alimentari in the Mercato Centrale, special food and extra special olive oil
Olio and Convivium, gourmet everything plus nice restaurant;
I Sapori del Chianti, cheese and wines.
Greve: La Pizzicheria, putting together a delicious picnic; Antica Macelleria Falorni, traditional salami and sausages.
Panzano: Antica Macelleria Cecchini, wonderful meats and herbs.
Buonconvento: Il Cantiniere
Ghiotto, local food specialties. If you like to eat, don't miss
the Renaissance town of Pienza. It is
not only beautiful but “ the ideal city” is filled with gourmet
food stores many featuring the famous pecorino cheese of
southern Tuscany in all its
incantations. The addresses are in my book.
What are
some of the most exquisite museums in
Tuscany
that you have discovered- and the ones
which most people tend to
overlook?
breath away: Museo della Porcellana, the porcelain museum at the
top of the Boboli Gardens at the Pitti Palace; Museo dell'
Opera del Duomo contains astonishing treasures including
construction materials for Brunelleschi's Dome; the Horne Museum, Renaissance art in a
15th century palazzo; the Bargello Museum, finest collection of
Renaissance sculpture in the world; the Ferragamo Museum, fabulous vintage shoes by
appointment.
Click here for Barbara Milo Ohrbach's address book
Photo © Simon
Upton